Moldova

Soak up the Spa Waters in Western Bohemia

An article for The Joy of Quiet Places: A Lonely Planet Book, August 2024
"An early morning stroll through the tiny, lovely spa town of Frantiskovy Lazne is an almost meditative experience, until a sip of musty spring water brings you to earth with a bump..."

Discover Moldova’s vibrant viticulture regions

An article for National Geographic Traveller, January 2024
"With a winemaking tradition stretching back over 7,000 years, the world’s highest density of vineyards and an array of wine experiences, Moldova is a dream destination for oenophiles..."

Stay for Free: Sleeping with Strangers

An article for National Geographic Traveller, May 2014
"I am folded in half. My knees are tucked up to my chin - my chin tucked into my chest. I can’t even feel my feet. In fact, my only sensation is the sharp jabbing below my shoulder blade..."

My Guard: Terror in Transnistria

An article for PureTravel, October 2013
"My finger is deep inside my right sock when I spot Him. Furtively glancing over the headrest in front of me, I spy the dark uniformed figure holding out an imperious palm to halt the bus..."

Top Marx: When Socialism Meets Tourism

An article for StalkingElk Magazine, July 2011
“China now has more KFC outlets than giant pandas. A mere two decades after some vexed Germans shouted at a wall, the country's about as socialist as Joseph McCarthy in a kaftan..."

Transnistria: Europe’s Last Kid on the Bloc

An article for Shoestring Magazine, October 2010
“As the 1990s rolled in, and the world watched Poland and co. march forwards to a bright new dawn, no-one seemed to notice that one corner of the Eastern Bloc had been left behind…”